“I had this vision of a young girl getting dressed up for a night out, dancing in front of the mirror to someone like David Bowie or Bryan Ferry, and very excited at perhaps seeing her crush at the club that night.” So said Emilia Wickstead after her Spring show, summing up the spirit of her youthful collection.

Wickstead is known for her use of color, and her tangerine duster coat over a blush-pink dress stood out, as did pieces in egg-yolk yellow, muted lime green, and duck-egg blue. A silk and cotton-weave mini jumpsuit with an overcoat was also a highlight. Silhouettes varied: There were relaxed looks with loose, boxy cuts, as well as dresses with nipped waists. The only hint of a print came through some structured striped pieces: “I am a little obsessed with stripes,” said Wickstead. All in all, the designer is having a moment: Moda Operandi chose her for their inaugural London trunk show on Monday, and she has just opened a store on Sloane Street.

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