Fans of Escada’s colorful pantsuits and embroidered gowns remain quite loyal, so it’s important to keep them happy. Fashion director Daniel Wingate accomplished that by offering cropped raspberry Taroni silk trousers, metallic leopard-print organza split-neck dresses, and photo-real tropical floral prints on black pencil skirts and tailored blazers. A black knit dress covered in enameled dots made to look like candy buttons, paired with a matching cardigan jacket, was also right up her alley.
But what about the new customer, the one who hasn’t yet found Escada? Wingate said that the season was a “fashion floriculture—with flowers in all forms, from exotic to romantic.” But many of those prints felt too familiar. What worked were the slightly more abstract ideas, such as the yellow petals individually beaded on a matching cropped shell and pencil skirt, or the burnout organza dress in white or lavender. A bias ruffle jumpsuit also offered a certain freshness. It was done in royal purple—a classic Escada shade—which proved modernity and history are not mutually exclusive.