Fausto Puglisi admitted to a case of nerves earlier than his present at this time. Since he arrived on the Milan Trend Week scene three years in the past, embroideries have been his inventory in commerce: daring, brassy, and full-throttle. Possessing as sturdy a signature as Puglisi does is one thing of a combined blessing. All of us love a designer with a recognizable voice, however in the end that voice begins to sound acquainted. Puglisi’s new assortment for Spring represented his largest step but away from the elaborations with which he made his title; therefore the nerves.

Citing Madame Grès and Halston as reference factors, Puglisi embraced silk jersey with a hand so supple, so liquid that it needs to be touched to be appreciated. However even with out copping a really feel, you would inform he was as much as one thing new and totally different with a draped ivory robe boasting an asymmetrical cape straight out of historic Greek statuary. We count on to see that gown making the rounds this awards season: It was that soigné. Different goddess clothes in that very same materials, be they brief, or suspended from a bandeau bathing go well with prime, or in a vivid mixture of crimson, white, and blue struck a extra anticipated observe. They weren’t dangerous; they only didn’t have that aspect of shock.

Ultimately, this assortment wasn’t a whole departure anyway. There have been scads of Puglisi’s beloved embroideries, however he gave them a novel spin, mixing honest-to-goodness seashells with sprays of multicolor rhinestones, half Malibu, half Dallas, with some positive Italian-made intarsia knits thrown into the combo. Not for the timid, however then that’s by no means been the Puglisi method. We’ve got a hunch that the encrusted cowboy boots, if he winds up retailing them, may change into a mini cult hit.

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