GIULIETTA AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
Sofia Sizzi is a connoisseur of the retro reference. For Fall she found a double whammy in Bertolucci’s 1970 political drama The Conformist, a movie that marries the glamour of the era in which it was made with the ’30s fascist design sensibilities that are its backdrop. The result was happily darker than some of Giulietta’s recent offerings. After all, does anyone read repeating black and red chevrons as anything other than an expression of a certain, perhaps Shining-esque, psychological distress? Prints like that and densely laser-cut, heat-bonded flocking did a lot to diffuse the sweetness elsewhere in this collection and in the Giulietta oeuvre generally.
Sizzi’s ’70s influences fairly sang, writ large in the great high-waisted flares and a paisley print, but the ’30s elements hummed along in the mix, too. A spruce-colored dress with bursts of Deco beading across the bodice you could almost picture on Norma Shearer circa The Women—though it would look just as good on a decidedly 21st-century starlet, such as Jemima Kirke.