“Pre-Fall is a touch of Tank Girl-meets-Asian travel,” said Henry Holland. “I’ve traveled a lot in Asia, especially Thailand, so this collection was really informed by my air miles.” The Thai influence was perhaps most present in the riot of colors, and Asia was also repped by satin “judo” kimonos. They went nicely with the tough, Tank Girl part of Holland’s theme, as did a very wearable satin dress and a short jumpsuit. One highlight was a dress made from different-sized paillettes, which Holland originally designed as part of Lily Allen’s stage garb. Holland showed separates in an amusing mushroom print, of which he said, “The Tank Girl is very ‘shroom-y’—I always have to have that kind of reprobate reference.” That would also explain the Mongolian sheepskin clutches and little leather bags with words like crap written on them. Elsewhere, a cashmere-blend skirt and sweater with delicate cutouts and ring metal detailing felt quieter, as did a basket-weave silk organza look with grosgrain ribbon detailing.
Throughout the collection, tartan abounded, from a short skirt in the brightest of colorways to a khaki dress with ab cutouts. But tartan with Thailand? Said Holland: “I added a Bay City Rollers element because tartan is part of my brand’s code, so no matter where I am, I have to infuse it in.” Even if he goes as far as Asia, Holland doesn’t forget his roots.