Hunter’s creative director, Alasdhair Willis, has been brushing up on his World War I naval history. His Spring collection was based around the idea of Dazzle, the camouflage painting technique that was used on British warships. “It’s all about the perception of depth in the field,” explained Willis. “The British navy was trying to make sure the enemy could not read the object—and the Dazzle print, which was originally conceived by the artist Norman Wilkinson, attempted to create that effect.” Though the reference was sound (and made sense for a company whose boots were worn by soldiers in World War I), Willis’ message got a little lost. The film that formed the backdrop featured images of half-eaten doughnuts, waves, and other seaside tropes; apparently, it was meant to reference the English summer experience, but it made an odd combination with the naval theme.

The first half of the show made heavy use of olive green, and many looks were styled with duck boots. The mood was quite utilitarian. Later on, the color palette expanded, incorporating blue and lilac, with the best looks being a number of jackets and anoraks in dynamic, Dazzle-inspired prints. One standout look was the black-and-white geometric pattern dress with pops of blue, covered up with a transparent anorak. Notable accessories included bags in aqua blue and color-blocked boots. It took a while to get to the best parts of the collection, but it was worth the wait.

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