JILL STUART AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
It girl-deejay may be the ultimate gig going these days, and it was that mold which Jill Stuart embraced as the inspiration for today’s outing (though it’s worth noting that the pro manning the turntables, Brendan Fallis, was missing an X chromosome). The designer promised party clothes with a splash of edge, and, indeed, her offerings in general have swayed a bit more to the downtown in recent seasons. If there have been any doubts as to just how influential Nicolas Ghesquière’s work since his Louis Vuitton debut has been, Stuart’s Fall collection put them swiftly to rest—though she’s far from New York’s only culprit. From model Julia Bergshoeff’s opening look to the moment closer Kate Grigorieva stalked off, there was a whole lot of Ghesquière going on here. The glossy oxblood pieces, the A-line minis teamed with turtlenecks and boxy little jackets, and the curved heels of the boots all felt a little derivative. Stuart’s more winning items, like her signature party dresses in black velvet or pinstriped metallic separates, hit their own stride and were stronger for it. Here’s hoping we’ll find more of that stride from Stuart come spring.