JONATHAN SIMKHAI AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
Making the leap from presentation to runway is a big step for a young designer. And it was that journey itself, after five years, that inspired Jonathan Simkhai. “I channeled the adrenaline of doing runway—the momentum,” Simkhai said backstage. “And pushing the pedal to the metal.”
This wasn’t his only racing reference. Those embroidered squiggles dripping down sheer dresses and pants echoed oil stains. Step back and take a look at the plaids on a big mesh sweatshirt and minidress and you realized they were tire tracks. Not that the designer is particularly into race cars or anything. He just tapped into the idea of a fearless woman for Fall.
All the mesh, which is no longer a trend for Simkhai and is more like a signature, was cut into body-con dresses, many with a lingerie-like delicacy and prettiness, in black, white, and pale pink. These were often worn with straight pants, also in mesh. But it was nice to see Simkhai move beyond this into day looks that were cool and sophisticated, like a white silk sweatshirt and a slim pale pink skirt, both printed with the oil stain. Or the caviar-beaded cutout dress that followed, which was youthful, sexy, and sporty. If Simkhai keeps exploring ideas outside of his favorite mesh motif, he’ll stay right on track.