Josie Natori is known for her East-meets-West aesthetic, but for Pre-Fall, she embraced casual dressing. Denim was a big message, and the designer spun a deep, soft indigo into fit-and-flare dresses, boxy jackets, and a suit. Frayed edges kept things laid-back and youthful, while subtle cream embroidery spoke to Natori’s love of embellishment. For her more dressed-up garments, she continued to experiment with 3-D appliqués, like blown-up circles that created a ripple effect (they were originally inspired by Istanbul ceramics and tilework). They looked convincing on a black-and-white polka-dot dress with contrasting fabric on the reverse. Elsewhere, Natori “feminized” men’s suiting by using a charcoal pinstriped material for a handkerchief-hem skirt, peplum blouse, and A-line dress. “It’s about tweaking our signature shapes,” she said. In the end, she may have fared better choosing a bolder stripe—this one is so faint you almost miss it. The collection’s standouts included a bright crimson “fortune cookie” coat with origami sleeves, and a belted vest that could also be styled as a jacket or dress.

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