On the first official day of New York Fashion Week, Josie Natori’s island-themed Spring ’15 show offered one last summer escape for showgoers in for a long month of collections. Drawing inspiration from her native Philippines and its surrounding tropical destinations, the designer kicked things off with neutral, sandy-toned looks featuring East Asian pieces—often decorated with intricate embroidery—such as open robes, obi belts, and asymmetric tops that wrapped over one shoulder. But given that Natori herself greeted guests in tailored, head-to-toe chartreuse, we knew we were in store for something a bit more colorful.

She quickly segued into a series of citrus-hued pajama separates (which spoke to the label’s original prowess in leisurewear, but occasionally felt a bit tired) cut from languid silk, before introducing hothouse floral prints on a pick-me-up of a jumpsuit about halfway through. Natori embraced pattern again for her finale, during which every model took a runway lap to Pharrell’s hit “Happy” in a basic white shirt paired with a vibrant sarong or palazzo pants. Among the other memorable moments were a raw indigo duster coat, handcrafted wooden or brass accessories, and a billowing black dressing gown styled over a plunging maillot worthy of Rihanna.

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