Just Cavalli – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
Big in Japan? Roberto Cavalli does big everywhere, so it should come as no surprise that his secondary line’s take on Nippon would be as raucous, acid-blasted, and full-throttle as the rest of his oeuvre. Resort found him whipping up traditional kimono prints into a brilliant, almost comic book-y frenzy, splashing them across ’60s-styled blouses and minis, like a sweet emerald baby-doll dress. You could almost imagine the girlfriend of some rock god heading to Tokyo on tour, picking up vintage pieces along the way and pairing them happily with all her L.A. fringe and studs (both here in spades, on jackets, skirts, suiting…). Among the strongest ensembles was a pair of bold, chrysanthemum-printed palazzo pants and a little blouse, topped off with a gleaming gold belt that riffed on traditional obis.
Cavalli’s dizzying digital patterns this season integrated Art Nouveau flourishes and that perennial favorite of the label, leopard spots—a combo so gung-ho as to prove tough to argue with. That was the case with much of this collection, a sense of fun that trumped traditional notions of cohesion. If there was one thing that could have stayed on the cutting-room floor, it was the thread of “country romanticism,” which yielded some lace-trimmed little dresses that felt less eclectic and more at odds with the all-out appeal to be found elsewhere here.