Girls will be girls, but few so much as those Lela Rose envisions, with her hyper-feminine vernacular. She’s fluent in flounce, A-lines, lace, and nipped waists—enough for her work to feel cloying from time to time. But Spring found Rose eyeing a happily minimalist idea: the kimono. “It’s a garment that has transcended centuries,” she effused backstage. Rose made it work for her in subtle ways, from metallic brushstroke prints to wrapped bodices that recalled robes (they exposed that improbable triangle of flesh at the upper abs that’s been aired so often on the runways of late). But there were no sharp turns taken here, and looks leaned toward the defiantly ladylike, with plenty of fit-and-flare shapes and off-the-shoulder necklines. Things teetered on the fussy in a few places, particularly with heavy floral prints. There Rose could have used some wabi-sabi on her side. But her particular vision is consistent and has mass appeal. To wit, she’s been tapped for a capsule collection for plus-size megastore Lane Bryant, which hits stores next year.

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