A overtly colourful Leonard present occurred simply steps from the Andy Warhol–wallpapered façade of the Musée d’Artwork Moderne, the place a brand new retrospective on the artist opened final week. Whether or not sheer coincidence or well timed homage, the gathering, which stays overseen by Parisian designer Yiqing Yin, stayed loyal to the Leonard archives—no soup cans, bananas, or hibiscus flowers. However the saturation of hues, dynamic sample preparations, integration of graphic textual content, and repetition of screened pictures all traced again to an unmistakable supply.
Yin cited an “urgency” for what she referred to as a livelier look when describing how the filmy printed organza, lacquered eel pores and skin, and woven leather-based sneakers and sandals all appeared triple-dipped in major pigments. However the present launched these components step by step; the opening grouping featured faint rainbow crosshatching, with the diaphanous skirt prettiest of all. Because the lineup transitioned from white as its anchor, to crimson, after which to cobalt blue, Yin utilized rising inventive license to the heritage; slick Windbreakers and color-blocked attire with deep draping and frisky cutouts have been essentially the most street-influenced she’s gone to date. In some instances, an excessive amount of print mixing turned chaotic. Backstage and off the runway, nevertheless, these similar items proved reasonably refined.
The museum retrospective occurs to be referred to as “Warhol Limitless.” Leonard can pursue this similar inventive depth and distinctive imaginative and prescient so long as it accepts that a few of its longtime clients may not be keen to come back alongside for the experience.