Paris brand Maison Kitsuné made its New York fashion week debut last night with a small presentation of its menswear and womenswear. In fact, the presentation marked the first time that Kitsuné, helmed by Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki, has shown during any fashion week at all. They’ve got some learning to do. Kitsuné’s clothes have a good deal of hanger appeal—witness the spiffy blurred-check suit for the boys here, or punchy girls’ looks like a hot pink neon poncho, or the jean jacket in a kind of hammered silver Lurex. The clothes pop when you’re shopping. But given the small number of looks shown in both the men’s and women’s categories, it was hard to extract much of a story from these collections. The overarching theme, it seemed, was “effortless French,” and according to Loaëc the new collections were meant as both a joke on, and a celebration of, that insouciant Parisian way of dressing. In the menswear, some of that insouciance was expressed through Americana, with baseball jackets, caps, and so on, and some through the cut of the clothes, which was more relaxed than usual. In the women’s collection the through-line was harder to discern, but there were some cute pieces. But then, “effortless French” is one of those themes that’s not really a theme—it’s an attitude, not a fully fleshed-out concept. It’s frosting, not cake. Which is fine for the shops, but a harder sell at fashion week.