The Marios Schwab show this afternoon got off to a pretty strong start with a series of crisp, menswear-inspired looks. There was a loss of momentum after that. Schwab is an intellectual designer, and this season, it got in his way. One of his key ideas was to create a kind of minimalist texture in his garments by subtly faceting the material like a gemstone. The idea was interesting in theory, and pretty low impact in practice. Likewise, Schwab’s architectural slits and hemlines didn’t do much to distinguish his silhouettes, though the effect proved memorable in tandem with gray granite prints, or when created via the artful draping of swaths of silk like big scarves. Given Schwab’s facility as a designer of gowns and cocktail frocks, it’s no surprise that this show picked up steam again as it pushed into evening looks. The tulle-covered ghost dresses with multicolor, vaguely Hellenic embroidery were a touch odd, but they didn’t lack for punch. The more reserved looks were the highlight of the collection: Schwab had one idea that was solid in theory and in practice, which was to suspend vast quantities of nude-toned tulle down the side of squared-off lengths of plain fabric and then finish the look with black bars that looked a little like gaffer tape. These looks fully expressed both the show’s architectural theme and its grasping for a sense of movement. And they were relatable and elegant, too.