Marino Marini and Panda Bear set the tone for Marni’s Fall 2015 presentation, which took place in Florence during Pitti Uomo. The former’s abstract equestrian sculptures loomed over the runway in the museum named after him. The latter’s new track “Boys Latin” filled the atrium with a pulsing, joyous rhythm.

The collection was a juxtaposition of elegant and primal. Sculptural shapes came in the form of richly colored tunics done in bonded suede with zips and single vents. Oversize trenches and robe-like collarless coats added a loose, relaxed element. Fur—and there was lots of it, including alpaca, sheepskin, and goat—brought an animalistic vibe, while the tailoring was precise and sturdy-looking, with mismatched checks and flared pants.

On the whole, designer Consuelo Castiglioni’s new offering wasn’t a collection with an agenda. There was no big push toward any particular trend or silhouette here—although it may have been the only place in Florence where you could find men wearing bell-bottoms. But there were many single pieces—those suede tunics and collarless coats, in particular—that were strong enough on their own to make it a Fall 2015 collection to remember.

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