MARTIN GRANT AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR PARIS FASHION WEEK
Martin Grant invited guests into his newly expanded showroom today, directing a runway through the salons that, for years, he eyed from across the courtyard. The fresh white walls and buffed parquet provided an appropriate backdrop for a collection that excelled in understated polish. The Paris-based Australian designer is no provocateur; he would rather send out several permutations of a precisely tailored trapeze coat than pad his lineup with directional styles. A skirt in extra-dense caramel Mongolian fur and a metallic silk brocade resembling birchbark were his most notable attempts at novelty.
Consequently, the eye scanned for other details and found them in the optical illusions Grant employed to accentuate leanness: wraparound leather belts for waist emphasis, cropped maxi skirts that made legs appear longer, jumpsuits that grazed the body, and cutouts placed at the lower back, where little excess collects. All those trapeze shapes now made sense: They, too, aimed to redistribute the silhouette. “I wanted it to be about luxury and class,” Grant said after the show. This might have been a polite way of hinting at the inextricable, aspirational relationship between rich and thin. If you really think about it, the signaling was as subtle as Grant’s liquid silver gown.