Maticevski Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
For Spring, there’s a rising tide of chatter around volume in clothing—and the wearability of revived forms and unconventional silhouettes in the day-to-day. We’ve seen it at Marni with gigantic cargo pockets; Jil Sander with statement shoulders; and at last night’s buzzy Jacquemus show with exaggerated shoulders and sleeves. (Demna Gvasalia, your shoulder suggestion at Vetements is proving to be very stimulating!) Is shapely exploration returning to the mainstream? It looks like it, and if it does, Toni Maticevski stands to benefit from the shift.
Maticevski has long played with volume, but his Spring collection, seen this morning in Paris, felt arguably leaner and lighter (and thus, more everyday) than recent efforts. Consider an orange neoprene-mimicking bonded fabric sliced into narrow high-waisted pants with a crop top to match, opening from the clavicle. (To note, that bonded technique allows for contrasting seams of navy to ripple through, almost like veins.) The look was intriguing and usable as separates. That was also true of a complicated asymmetric dress of the same treatment; it had graphic juts and folds, but still felt fluid and linear. A silvery frock, made of soft cotton and sculpted in places with crinoline backing, had ruffles and swish—not for wallflowers, but not impossible to pull off either. And a clean, monolithic waistcoat in an off-white tone dubbed “haze” was as minimal as Maticevski has ever gone.
The focus, said Maticevski’s PR team, was to give the client items to satiate her attraction to the brand while also delivering something new. Sometimes that intention became overwrought, like with diaphanous black grids protruding outward from sleeves. But for the most part, Maticevski delivered something that’s fresh and perhaps will be à la mode come springtime.