Missoni – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear

Angela Missoni cited abstract artist Sonia Delaunay, whose retrospective is currently on at the Tate Modern in London, as a source of inspiration for Resort. It’s easy to see why Missoni would embrace Delaunay, who not only painted colorful, geometric mosaics but created tapestries and even designed clothes. Missoni’s mother, Rosita, is also a longtime admirer of the artist.

To channel Delaunay this time around, the designer dabbed painterly prints onto silk blouses, and patchworked space-dyed knits into long dresses and tapered trousers. But it was the generous use of the classic “stereo-waves” pattern—in everything from a blazer to a minidress—that felt freshest. Design-wise, a reverse pleat on the back of several dresses was a nice, unexpected touch.

At the end, there was a Lurex moment. The spongy, fluffy oversize cardigan absorbed the sparkle enough to make it palatable. That’s when a collection like this works best: when the blast of color or shine is rendered in such a way that makes it impossible not to like.