MONIQUE LHUILLIER SPRING/SUMMER 2015 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Monique Lhuillier has mastered the art of the beautiful evening gown, but for Spring ’15, her focus shifted to daywear. “I really wanted to grow that category and dress my customer earlier,” she said. Her inspiration stemmed from a recent trip to Harbour Island in the Bahamas. “When the sun rose over the ocean, the sky turned beautiful shades of blush and lavender, and there was this reflective quality to the water,” she explained. “I wanted to instill that sparkle in every piece.” The concept was straightforward on a neoprene dress printed with a shimmering sunrise landscape, while an iridescent silk voile skirt and a cellophane-like silk mikado dress were a bit more avant-garde.

Lhuillier also experimented with new techy fabrics, like the “liquid satin” on the bust of a cocktail dress, which resembled metal when it caught the light. There were even luminous threads on the cuffs of a sheer lace blouse; layered over a black bandeau, it was one of the collection’s most accessible pieces. “There are a lot of separates, so you can just buy a few items to update your wardrobe,” Lhuillier explained. Of course, for her, separates don’t quite translate to casual. Even the playful rompers and hip-slung shorts were done in a structured, high-shine gazar. They didn’t exactly lend themselves to a trip to the grocery store, but they did have “garden party” written all over them.

A group of evening gowns closed the show, and to the undiscerning eye, they were typical Monique—lots of intricate beading, flower petals, and sequins. But underneath each A-line skirt was a rainbow of sherbet-colored tulle layers, which created the same multidimensional effect as an island sunrise. It was those details that made this one of Lhuillier’s more memorable collections.

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