NAEEM KHAN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
Somewhere along the way, a runway show’s measure of success went from being how much the audience clapped to how little it clapped. Now everyone has their Instagram-primed smartphones held up, like prairie dogs standing at attention in fashion’s grasslands. It’s still odd, though, to see a truly remarkable dress—in this case, Naeem Khan’s sheer, full-skirted T-shirt gown covered in waves of silver and black beads—walk by in the final parade to near pin-drop silence.
Khan’s stock has risen of late with the young Hollywood set. His runway stylist is Lupita Nyong’o’s gal, Micaela Erlanger, and Diane “Always on Point” Kruger is a recent wearer. Which may be why he focused almost exclusively on red carpet for Fall, forgoing the handful of separates he’s shown in the past.
If it ends up that fashion week is a quick-turnaround dress rehearsal for the Oscars, the nominees are: a coral and red dégradé strapless chiffon gown; a black-and-white scallop-beaded gown with a deep, deep V-neck; a navy velvet siren with emanating silver stripes; and the aforementioned silver and black look. The spangled tuxedos felt too obvious—the moss colors were a tough sell—and the lattice looks skewed grande dame-ish. It was mainly when Khan indulged in more-is-more beading in the show’s final black, white, and silver section that there was an approving hush.