Narciso Rodriguez – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear

Narciso Rodriguez is not a designer who clicks his way through Tumblr or Instagram for references. Better off leaving that to the kids. His Resort inspiration came from a much more unusual, and unlikely, place: a trove of antique men’s tie templates. The precise tucks and folds of the ties’ paper patterns gave him a jumping-off point for the tucks and folds on the torso of a body-skimming sleeveless white sheath and a blush-tone, slightly more-away-from-the-body tank dress. Those pleats and creases in turn led him to the color-blocked prints on another pair of slim-cut dresses. They were easily the boldest prints he’s done in some time: graphic but also somehow organic.

Rodriguez has a very distinct voice. To the inexpert eye, the shifts in his tailoring from season to season may be difficult to register. But those more familiar with his work will notice a timely loosening up of the silhouette, which was flat as a board on the Fall runway. His black pantsuit was as expertly cut as ever, but it had a relaxed attitude that will make it a friendlier fit. Elsewhere, a shirtdress and jumpsuit in lightweight tropical wool were also more generously proportioned than usual, not slouchy or oversized by any stretch of the imagination, but with a nice bit of air between fabric and skin. That said, if you want a scuba-tight little black dress, Rodriguez is still your go-to guy. His latest iteration comes with sexy cutouts on the back.