NASIR MAZHAR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 MENSWEAR – LONDON

Nasir Mazhar wanted to present a 24-hour wardrobe for his guys, with all the gear that the men who are into the Mazhar look could want. Backstage the designer stressed that all pieces were equally important; in fact, there should be “importance in your wardrobe and there should be importance in your life.” In other words, things should be taken seriously.

There were some seriously fly looks here, to be sure—tracksuits in oily silk nylon or pneumatic jackets that looked like blown-up blue Bubble Wrap. For the club-ready outfit? Jacquard, of course, which was not new for Mazhar, but still looked pretty stunning. Zipper detailing gave white pants a scarred look, revealing a blue lining, while a green mesh knit was a first for the designer. Mazhar claimed this collection was his notion of normal. Was it a tardy comment on the whole normcore debate? Probably not.

It was nice to see sportswear that didn’t try to be anything else, but instead aimed at a better version of itself. Often when luxury meets sports another story unfolds that tries to treat the sportswear element as a side dish rather than the main course. Here you felt that the answer to the question of what clothes you’d buy if you had more cash was simple: Exactly the same ones already in your wardrobe—only better made, and in more expensive fabrics. “I’m not a crazy conceptual designer,” Mazhar said. “These are just clothes you want to wear.”

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