OHNE TITLE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK

There was something, dare we say, slightly retro this season about Alexa Adams and Flora Gill’s usually ultramodern knits. It was subtle, for sure, but in a collection that usually sticks to its technology- and technique-pushing ways with knits, this spelled big news. There was a touch of flare to the opening look’s red pants, worn with a pink ribbed wrap, mock turtleneck, belted sash, and net detail. It didn’t exactly constitute a bell-bottom, but the subsequent belted black and brown suede trench, jazzy purple Lurex tanks, and handful of wrapped sweaters cinched into skirts (creating the illusion of a wrap dress) gave off a ’70s vibe. Faint, but present.

Adams and Gill also loosened up the strict fit-and-flare knit formula they normally adhere to. This was best seen in two-tone dresses with striped pleats that created a layered optical effect as the models moved. Their colors seemed to get away from them at times, swinging from turquoise, blues, and pinks to muted gray and brown, but all in all this was a big push forward.