Opening Ceremony – Pre AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR

Well, it was bound to happen. Inevitably, some label was going to do a juice-themed fashion collection. Also inevitably, that label was going to be Opening Ceremony. Why juice? Why not?! Are jacquards based on kale and ruffles that look a bit like orange slices inherently silly in a way that, say, jacquards based on works by hoity-toity contemporary artists or ruffles based on geological formations are not? This reviewer says no—and congratulates Humberto Leon and Carol Lim for having the wit to reach for a reference so close at hand. There’s a certain kind of genius in seeing—really seeing—the familiar.

And kudos to Lim and Leon, as well, for turning out one of their strongest efforts in a while. There was a sophisticated side to this collection, and a playful one; at either end of the spectrum, you got the impression that these clothes had been carefully considered. The more grown-up offer, heavy on jacquards, featured some fantastic soigné coats and ruffled slim trousers and dresses that—never mind the orange-slice reference—had a real sense of reserve. That’s a tone in short supply in most Opening Ceremony collections, but Lim and Leon struck it with confidence here. Then they moved on, into a more bonkers mode, and offered up banana-peel prints on Italian vinyl, sweatshirts covered with produce stickers, and lots of logomania-style treatments of the word Fresh! Yup.

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