“CHICKEN or egg,” Osman Yousefzada jokingly pondered backstage after his show this afternoon when asked what came first: his strict three-way colour scheme or his opulent and extensive mix of fabrics.

“You always have your reference bag for ages. I just wanted this to be a tight collection,” he said. And so a restricted palette of white, red and black became his guide enabling, as he put it, the “fabrics to be the heroes” and so this was an exercise in texture.

Those in question were marble brocades – the cloud-like shimmery versions we’ve seen in his pre-collections past – and which here were given an update in silver and white and then red and magenta. Their contour shapes in turn bore the big buttons that sat on sturdy side-fastening coats, which were accompanied by sleeves fluting at collars and with ties on elbows. The same thing happened down below on cropped flower pot flares and adorned knees.

There was rich red lace and a column gown engulfed in white beads, a black cut-out dress later adorned in sugar-strand-beads stood out for its clever construction and on another came the fun addition of pom-poms pulling at the hem.

What was interesting here was that by using so many textures, everything else was kept considered so that at no point did anything become too over the top, the silhouettes stood out for themselves and details had space to breathe.

With thanks to Mercedes Benz

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