PETER JENSEN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON FASHION WEEK

Peter Jensen’s new muse is Julia Fodor, aka living legend of London nightlife Princess Julia. She’s as typically deadpan as ever about the role, but her own distinctive femme fatale style—a bit of sparkle, a bit of vintage, a veil or two—sits well with the increasing sophistication of Jensen’s signature quirk. Their worlds meshed beautifully in a dressy bouclé coat in a rich shade of pumpkin, with a tulle-lined skirt to match.

Julia took on her title during the first heady flush of punk in the late ’70s. Jensen reminded us of those days with a grabby graphic of Jayne County’s eyes printed on a shift dress and embroidered on a sweatshirt. There were also prints of lipstick stains and perfume bottles on prim white blouses. The clash of style and content was a clever comment on Julia’s style.

That’s always been the distinctive thing about her look. It’s very glamorous, but it’s very proper. Which rather defined Jensen’s collection. A piecrust collar? Positively pilgrim. But proper can be sly, too, like the Peter Pan-collar dress in gold lamé, all covered up until it turned to reveal a saucy slit right up the back. There was a potentially incongruous outbreak of casual sportiness in a look with a sweater knotted round the waist (Julia does yoga), except the dress was, once again, cut from lamé, and the sweater was actually a trompe l’oeil effect. Jensen did the same thing with a strapless cocktail dress. Also strapless was a jumpsuit in ivory crepe. “I’d like a wedding dress,” Julia told Jensen. So that’s what he gave her. Muse’s prerogative.