Public School – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are part of the establishment now. In April the duo was tapped as the new creative directors of apparel juggernaut DKNY. That appointment is a savvy one, and the latest Public School collection reminded you why: Chow and Osborne have a natural flair for making the kind of New York City cool-kid clothes that DKNY used to reliably retail. This season, they put a softer accent on their tomboyish aesthetic, focusing on relaxed tailoring and silhouettes with a sense of fluidity and movement. Spiffy tailored shirtdresses, for instance, featured draped skirts that swished and swayed, and wide-leg pants of nearly ball gown proportions fell to the ankles in limpid pleats. A pair of those trousers in bright silver nylon made for a good example of what Public School should be doing with a directional look; meanwhile, the more matter-of-fact stuff here was executed with exceptional polish. The natty, nylon-detailed sweats and hoodies represented a major upgrade to the category, and the trim trousers and jumpsuits in black crepe had a perfect, slouchy drape. If these are the kind of go-to pieces that Osborne and Chow turn out in their DKNY debut in September, the brand’s customers will be very, very pleased.