RACHEL COMEY – PRE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR

A few hours after presenting her new collection by appointment today, designer Rachel Comey was due at her boutique on Crosby Street, where she was hosting a one-night-only ceramics gift shop pop-up. The timing wasn’t entirely coincidental. Comey was feeling ceramics this season, extrapolating stoneware spatter and the look of chinoiserie porcelain into her clothes, and creating painterly prints and carpet-like bag embroideries based on a glaze by Jennie Jieun Lee, one of the artists featured in Comey’s pop-up. You could also argue there was something a touch pottery-esque about the look of the enzyme-washed white denim and the hand of the quilted linen Comey put to repeated, effective use. Unlike pottery, though, these looks weren’t fragile: Even an all-lace jumpsuit or a lean dress in sumptuous floral jacquard had a certain durable quality, one that came out in spades in the collection’s hands-down standout pieces. Her gored denim midi skirts looked sure to be fan favorites, for one, while coats of fuzzy pink mohair or bonded heather gray jersey both had, in their very different ways, the right kind of “oh man, it’s getting cold out,” throw-it-on insouciance that works best for this season. There was also a terrific shirting selection and glossy, pleated looks in a notional nude sketch print that gained in appeal the more you looked at it. It helped that Comey was keeping her silhouettes straightforward here—the fabrics were interesting enough to carry the collection, while the shapes were approachable enough to reach an audience beyond the typical, artsy Comey customer. Retailers, take note.

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