Spring’s utilitarian flame is still burning strong for Rebecca Minkoff. Pre-Fall found the designer plumbing military style in its many forms, from the classic (a borrowed-from-the-boys anorak) to the naval (a pair of swell sailor pants) to the Saint Laurent (a Saharienne-inspired cargo dress). The palette? Almost uniformly olive green. One standout was a garden-variety trench that Minkoff kitted out with a zipper, allowing it to be converted into a thoroughly modern boxy topper; ditto a surplus-style jacket edged in brass studs. But it wasn’t all martial pragmatism; see Minkoff’s cropped knit bodycon top and a thigh-grazing leather mini slashed by lace-up detailing. The prettiest pieces here came in a flocked midnight-blue jacquard bearing long, swingy curtains of fringe; a capelet in that fabrication felt like a worthwhile gamble amidst a lot of safe bets. If the collection lacked novelty, it will make up for it with its wide-ranging appeal when it hits the racks at Minkoff’s techy new Soho outpost.

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