Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2017 Menswear
The Russian painter Nicolas de Staël ’s oeuvre was on more than one mood board this season; not surprising, because he was loaded with some of the most attractive qualities that a fashion designer in search of inspiration can hope for. He was handsome, talented, an emigré aristocrat, a slightly depressed charmer, stylish as hell, and with that aura of ineffable insouciance that only a well-heeled, decadent upbringing can lend. He was also a displaced, doomed soul who traveled a great deal in his life. That’s more than enough to make any creative type trip hard on inspiration.
The design team at Ferragamo, taking over from previous creative director Massimiliano Giornetti, who recently left the company, infused Ferragamo’s Spring collection with an artsy spirit peppered with the energetic vibe of a sophisticated explorer. Travel is a ubiquitous inspiration this season, probably reflecting a very real desire to escape to a better world, which seems to be the only place that no one has yet been able to discover. But at least the Ferragamo guy looked very well equipped for the task; creative yet practical, with a youthful, adventurous spirit firmly rooted in tradition, he looked elegantly agile in sahara silk jackets and loose, paper-light parkas. Suits were soft and comfortable, with a fresh take on tailoring and with functional, almost workwear-inspired proportions. A touch of the decorative was found on blousons encrusted with abstract motifs, which this time were intended as an homage to the French artist Jean Arp; they were also translated in colorful pins on lapels and on printed foulards, loosely worn with nonchalant attitude. Huge canvas backpacks were carried to highlight the irrepressible urge to get going: Obviously, they were of the hyper-luxe variety customarily associated with the label’s stellar level of quality.
The Ferragamo guy might be a restless adventurer, even a little mad as only an artist can be, but because at heart he’s a well-bred enfant gâté, he will always be fond of luxe, the more extravagant and expensive the better. Case in point: a blouson made of more than 100,000 small papery leather triangles, meticulously stitched and assembled to produce a colorful archival foliage print, which achieved a spectacular 3-D effect: Making it took more than 290 hours of work.