Pre-Fall ’15 marks the first season that the production of See by Chloé is back under the Chloé roof, and with that milestone comes a new design autonomy (and a new logo: “Le Bisou,” a heart inside a pair of lips). Indeed, Clare Waight Keller’s hand was felt strongly here. The collection was an especially fitting younger counterpart to the main line’s Spring offering, with the same sweet balance of the gauzy and the pragmatic, with the same eye to the house’s heritage tying it all together. While the flirtations of a young Englishwoman with her adopted Paris home are SBC’s perennial fodder, here it was that (presumably Brit) girl’s equestrian side that spoke loudest, and not just with novelty horse intarsias, although those drove the point pithily home. Quilted reversible outerwear and copper grommet details that edged crisp shirting were evocative of particularly chic saddle blankets. And there was coziness in spades here, from a palette heavy on blush, navy, and cream to the ribbed knits, familiar plaids, and a washed denim trimmed in braid detailing. Teamed with girlish shapes in broderie anglaise or sheeny gabardine, it made for the kind of down-to-earth dreaminess that really stoked one’s anticipation for the next collection.

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