Suno – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
According to Suno’s Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, their starting point for the label’s latest collection was “modern folk.” The folk elements were pretty self-evident: naive floral prints and embroideries, cotton eyelet, and craft embellishments such as a macramé trim. The duo came at the modern, meanwhile, from a rather unexpected angle. If the collection were shorn of its folksiness, you’d take it as an elevated riff on prep, what with the emphasis on stripes, pleats, polo collars, and the color navy. This was also an unusually trim and tailored outing for Suno. The key silhouette, perhaps, was a lean pencil dress, buttoned off to the side. That close fit was echoed in the knit frocks and elaborated with some volume in dresses of glossy mikado featuring an empire waist or a skirt that erred toward the A-line. There were also tunic-shaped dresses and tops aplenty here, which relaxed the feel of the collection as a whole, but even these pieces had a kind of sharpness to them. Fluidity was strictly limited and given full expression only in a pair of floral georgette sundresses, layered one over the other in the lookbook. The Suno take on “folk” this season, in other words, was essentially hard-edged urbane rather than pastoral. Beatty and Osterweis freely used the familiar folksy motifs but put them to work in clothes that eluded the usual hippie-dippie clichés. It made for an appealing, if unexpectedly stern, update.