There were far more relaxed jackets and matching trousers than evening gowns on Temperley London’s runway today, and that ratio signifies a welcome new direction for the brand. Spring ’15 marks the second collection since designer Alice Temperley fused her glamorous, red-carpet-ready main line with her lower-priced, more day-centric Alice by Temperley range. The merger seems to be serving her well. “A woman has needs,” offered Temperley backstage. “She needs to get up and go to work in something like what I have on,” she added, gesturing to her own gray suit and scarf ensemble that appeared to be from her Resort lineup. Speaking of Resort, Spring seemed to be a natural progression from that outing. The suits continued (“I’m obsessed with suits. I’ve just made seven for each day of the week,” Temperley said), but this time around they came in solid pink or ivory crepe, checked cotton, or linen. Most of these outfits were garnished with elegant but breezy dinner scarves, and pants were cuffed to reveal a new range of Temperley trainers—further proof of the label’s youthful, street-ready turn.

Pulling inspiration from Japanese shunga paintings, Temperley incorporated long, airy kimono jackets covered in vivacious prints, as well as a shorter quilted iteration that was beautifully sculpted into a swing coat. Alongside swishy shorts, brightly hued playsuits, and flowy printed chiffon dresses, these pieces lent a buttoned-up, bohemian vibe to the collection. The use of layering (sheer caftans fluttered out from beneath jackets and trenches, for instance) added to this spirited, carefree aesthetic. But don’t be mistaken: While the women on today’s runway may have appeared laid-back, when it comes to fabrication, quality, and those fancy little details (think a bejeweled bow closure or shimmering latticework details on a sheer cocktail frock), the Temperley client still refuses to compromise.

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