Thakoon Panichgul’s brand turned 10 this year; he celebrated with a capsule collection for Barneys back in October. With that experience not far in his rearview mirror, he approached Pre-Fall not so much thematically, but rather, he said, by working on his label’s “codes.” A decade in, the Thakoon brand stands for hybrids and classic American sportswear rendered unexpected with subtle and not-so-subtle tweaks. Cotton shirts that might be missing one sleeve or finished with a flourish of extra fabric to tie around the neck. Sweaters needle-punched with graphic panels of lace. A dress that does day/night double duty. This season, the collection had a rich, textural flair: Jacquards were inspired by mosaic tiles, oversize tweeds came with rows of yarn fringe, and a paisley was over-dyed with a black floral. The mood was more bohemian than romantic, a sensibility accentuated by the boxy, boyish ribbed knit pants—as close to pj’s as you can get and still leave your house—and men’s leather slippers lined in shearling. There’s a risk in removing the “everydayness” from what were once basics. But if the asymmetrical hem and contrast lining on a silk dress were a tweak or two too far, more often than not Panichgul’s hybrids were winning.

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