Timo Weiland, Alan Eckstein, and Donna Kang like to let the good times roll, and it’s their happy memories together that often inspire their collections. Backstage before their Spring show at Milk Studios, the trio reminisced over a recent trip they took to Los Angeles organized by the CFDA. There, they explored the city’s Silver Lake and West Hollywood neighborhoods, and spent a lot of time hanging out in their friends’ backyards.
For the show, Weiland and co. kicked things off with a sensual series featuring fluid robe-like trenches, chiffon pajama tops, and pleated silk charmeuse skirts. The opening looks reflected a new focus on maturity for the brand, but perhaps came across as too adult—worn without a bra, those sheer blouses were definitely NSFW.
As the lineup progressed, it eased into more familiar, carefree territory with signature ottoman knits (several noteworthy pieces included abstract floral intarsia) and party-ready frocks that came in a graphic “bubble” eyelet. Elsewhere, the designers channeled more of a laid-back California vibe with beachy, awning-stripe “drug rugs”; hooded windbreakers; and casual cotton separates, which were splashed with a playful palm hand-drawn with Sharpie markers. In the latter category, a cropped camp shirt paired with a white ribbed wrap skirt made for a particular standout. While there were plenty of individual items to take away from the collection, it ultimately lacked a cohesive point of view.