Alessandra Facchinetti has handled the not-all-that-easy task of crafting a ready-to-wear identity for Tod’s, Diego Della Valle’s pebble-soled driving-shoe company, with low-key, customer-friendly aplomb. All-leather collections can go wrong in any number of ways; Facchinetti’s have been subtle and sophisticated. Still, the very notion of a full leather outfit presents a problem. Even cut paper-thin with lasered edges, head-to-toe skins can be heavy and uncomfortable to wear. If you need a reminder of that, look at Facchinetti’s Fall ’14 collection. Today, she seemed to be making an effort to push at the edges of the label she took over four seasons ago.

The blush pink leather trench she opened with was smooth and flawless, but it was one of only a few pieces in the fabric. Among her other propositions were whipstitched wool tailoring, suede separates, intarsia knits, and sporty, down-filled jackets not quite puffy enough to earn the “puffer” moniker. It’s been a good season for sweaters so far, but Facchinetti’s were special, with graphic designs circling the neckline and the arms above the wrists. The navy version belted over a pair of cropped raw denim jeans was particularly winning. A similar geometric intarsia motif reappeared at the end of the show on a great-looking coat. It’s also been a big couple of weeks for shearling, but again, Facchinetti’s goes down among the most distinctive so far. Her printed pantsuits didn’t fare as well, but, their excesses aside, this was a convincing outing. It made you wonder why you don’t see more—or, let’s just say it, any—of Facchinetti’s clothes for sale online or in stores.

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