TOGA SPRING/SUMMER 2015 LONDON FASHION WEEK

There are people—this reviewer among them—who have a dangerous affection for high-functioning lunatics. Japanese brand Toga is a case in point. Yasuko Furuta is a high-functioning lunatic of a designer, super batty, but also supersmart, and therefore unpredictable in ways that fill you with glee. (Her mantra: “I create for a complex woman who can only live in chaos.”) This collection was brimming with artful surprises: the little clouds of a tulle-like fabric erupting from an otherwise mundane tan sweater; organic shapes suspended in denim; a strapless cocktail frock trimmed in what looked like electrified pleats; the glint of mirror off a blouse. And so on. This collection seemed less about putting an unexpected spin on traditional looks than on disciplining Furuta’s froth of ideas into some kind of wearable shape. Still, most all the clothes here retained a believable quality, and in fact, the overwhelming impression was that this collection was terribly pretty—the glistening sheer pleats, the painterly maxi dresses punctuated by ruffles. It was rather sexy, too, what with all the cropped bustier tops and abbreviated skirts. Pace Furuta’s mantra, there was chaos here, but there was also a complex woman at its center. Bearing that woman keenly in mind is the source of this lunatic designer’s high function.

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