TSE – Pre Spring Summer 2016 Ready To Wear
Sometimes all it takes is a trip back home to get inspired. TSE’s Tina Lutz found her vision for Resort ’16 during a vacation in Germany, stumbling upon a book of Karl-Heinz Adler’s art from the 1970s in a local flea market. At a preview in her showroom, she flipped to a series of line drawings, which appeared to be computer-generated but had slight imperfections to show the artist’s hand. Lutz often explores geometry and architecture in her designs; here she whipped up a double-layer silk dress and draped trousers with sharp, diagonal lines straight from Adler’s best works. Elsewhere, his influence was subtler, like on reversible sweaters with grid-like textures. “There was so much in this book for us knit nerds,” she said. “He used a lot of squares, which we turned to stitches, and we used the lines to create movement.” A particularly cute white and China-blue-checked cardigan had buttons going up the front and back so you could adjust its swingy shape—or leave it half-open in the back to show some skin.
As a designer who loves 16-ply wool and chunky, sculptural knitting techniques, Lutz might be challenged by the Resort season. But she can get behind warm-weather knits—see the featherlight silk sweaters or the red open-weave peplum pullover that looked heavy but was actually 100 percent cotton. In the end, the color palette made the biggest impact. “We were really in the mood for bright colors,” Lutz said. “Usually TSE is very soft, but Resort felt like the perfect time for a palate cleanser.” The brand made a name for itself with pastel twinsets in the early ’90s, so anything brighter than pale pink might feel like a departure for customers. But simple silhouettes—like a chic, slimming pair of chili-colored flares—will make it a little easier for them to walk on the wild side.