Vivienne Westwood has made a behavior of utilizing her trend reveals as a platform for activism. This season, she was championing two associated causes. In a observe left for attendees at their seats, she invited them to hitch her on the Individuals’s March for Local weather, Justice and Jobs in London on November 29, simply forward of the beginning of the Paris local weather talks. On the runway, in the meantime, she paid homage to Venice, a metropolis that, maybe as a result of local weather change, is sinking even quicker than it was earlier than. Venice is an effective theme for Westwood—her reveals are inclined to have a sure carnival environment of their mixture of the decadent and the louche. You’d have anticipated a Vivienne Westwood Save Venice! assortment to function fairly a number of of her signature night attire, with their bouffant skirts and baroque swirls of sculptural draping.
However Westwood took one other tack. As an alternative of cocktail appears, she emphasised quite plainspoken daywear silhouettes, proven on male in addition to feminine fashions, in a gesture that learn much less political than as an homage to the Venetian custom of the masque. The cross-dressing theme was echoed as effectively within the array of tailor-made objects, specifically fits that regarded oversize and mannish, with trousers minimize to seem as if they’d been cinched up spontaneously to suit a girl’s smaller body. That was one in every of Westwood’s dramatic prospers; others included poufed sleeves and hardware and crystal embellishment sewn onto jackets. So far as theatrics went, nonetheless, Westwood saved her fireplace for just a few spectacular items, such because the extra-long coats worn excessive overhead, which created a spookily big silhouette, and a bodysuit of sequin-dripping web that conjured a really fancy birdcage. For sure, these appears to be like had fairly an impression on the runway. However the strongest ones at immediately’s present had been rather more easy—Westwood nonetheless drapes a imply costume, and her fluid silk frocks, bunched artfully within the entrance, made for a positive addition to her substantial oeuvre. They had been dressy, these attire, however had such an informal mien that you could possibly think about sporting one to march alongside the designer in London subsequent month.