Wes Gordon has spent the past few seasons working to define his brand’s mission. “It’s becoming really clear who we are as a company, and who I am as a designer,” he said. Maybe that’s why he decided to compete for the second time in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund after taking a year off. “I have different answers to their questions now,” he said. It’s been interesting to watch Gordon’s progression since his Fall 2010 debut: His taste level has risen steadily, and his woman has transformed from a fantasy figure into a real client. Gordon has found his niche in clean-and-lean pieces with just the right amount of polish.

For Spring 2015 much attention was paid to curved seams, which gave Gordon’s high-slit dresses in black and white stretch crepe an added sensuality. His favorite Chantilly lace returned once again, most notably in a black and celadon strapless column dress. There were new fabrics too, including a lightweight tweed painted with a windowpane check on a V-neck blazer and a pair of trousers. While much of the collection is still made in New York, Gordon is doing some things in Italy as well—a pale pink blazer made abroad from a substantial crepe stood out for its meticulous construction.

Gordon’s look may now be better delineated, but there were still some playful, unexpected moments. A pair of overalls made of gray mélange linen were a sexy and cool way to do the now-standard jumpsuit, and a long-sleeve quadrant gown embroidered with tiny Swarovski crystal embellishments had a liquid-y, chain mail-like look. It’s nice to come across a young designer with so much outward confidence in his capabilities.