YIGAL AZROUEL AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR
“It’s adding the little details that, for me, complete the look,” said Yigal Azrouël after his show. By that he must have meant the way two gray tulle mock crewnecks and a day dress were embroidered so interestingly with felted wool that they looked like a crackled desert floor. Or the way he worked a subtle patchwork into the sleeves of a snake-embossed jacquard jumpsuit.
These were just some of the ways Azrouël translated his Bauhaus-meets-Kazimir Malevich inspiration, elevating the utility of clothes with purpose through special details and craft. He took the abstract geometrics of Malevich and reordered them into striking lined patterns on trim jackets, cropped pants, and long wool vests worn over silk patchwork blouses. Everything was orderly, precise, for a reason—from the thin white stripes outlining tonal gray color-blocking on a terrific mink to charcoal gray geometric insets highlighting and flattering the waist on a classically tailored coat and pencil skirt. Pants had higher waists and were cut in loose tapers, and almost every top and blouse featured a high neck. Let the rest of fashion week revel in the ’70s. Azrouël is keeping things modern.