“Dressed-up street style” was one way Zac Posen described the latest collection from his lower-priced line, ZAC Zac Posen. But these weren’t the too-perfect looks worn by professionals parading up the Lincoln Center steps at New York fashion week. Instead, Posen’s silhouettes were more reminiscent of something photographer Bill Cunningham might shoot for the On the Street section of The New York Times. Whether emerging from the subway or grabbing launch in Midtown, Cunningham’s subjects rarely look flawless, but they do look vibrant and dynamic.
With the lyrics of Spring 2015 muse Lauryn Hill playing in the background at his Tribeca studio, Posen showed a series of colorful dresses and separates that took on a “slightly preppy tone,” as he put it. The perennial hits were on hand, including ribbed-silk faille wiggle dresses, stretch-knit shifts in candy colors, and a few floaty gowns, including an ombré number inspired by a sunset shot from the designer’s own Instagram. But he also made a real go at separates, with high-waist culottes and an ombré-leather bomber. One of the most successful ideas had to do with shirting. A woven white cotton top was cut like a drapey T-shirt, while a black silk blouse cascaded down the back. These pieces were feminine and romantic but also professional and realistic. Paired with cropped trousers and a ladylike handbag, they were dressed-up but not costumey.