ZIMMERMANN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
Backstage before her Fall show, Nicky Zimmermann referred to the parties she remembered her parents giving during her childhood. That nostalgia yielded a focus on occasion dressing—no great shock coming from Zimmermann, whose label has plenty of flair when it comes to the festive and more-is-more. Here were a heavy dose of ’70s shapes and a palette inspired by ’60s interior design: merlot, sea foam, tangerine, dove gray, rust…the list goes on. The brand’s signature diaphanous gowns were out in full force, from a sorbet-hued paisley number with macramé panels along the sleeves and down the bust to an oxblood stunner of a finale look. They were nipped at the waist, flowing everywhere else, and shot through with miles of the inset trims that have become such a prominent part of the Zimmermann design vocabulary: gold rings, delicate looped cord, that aforementioned macramé. Many of the dresses also bore generous cutouts that felt like a boldly sexed-up move for the brand, to mixed effect.
In between all those maximalist maxis were puff-sleeve blouses and high-waist stretch crepe flares in jewel tones, shantung trousers, and a couple of standout glamour coats, but daywear was pretty thin on the ground overall. Night owls with a taste for some flash will come away happiest here.