Something a little offbeat always happens in Mona Kowalska’s A Détacher collection. And it’s a welcome weirdness. A few days before her Spring show, Kowalska spoke about an Italo Calvino quote that resonated with her: “‘Childhood boredom is a special kind of boredom.’ It leads to this world of fantasy, daydreams, and innocent fun,” said Kowalska.
Those daydreams were manifested in the collection’s core print, which featured a colorful landscape topped with puffy white clouds. As is Kowalska’s wont, everything was cut big and loose. “I wanted it to feel like hand-me-downs you get from your sister or mom,” she explained. Slim pleated knit skirts, topped with sheer sweaters, felt like they were borrowed from Kowalska’s mother’s closet in the ’70s—they were lean and sporty. These were complemented by what can only be described as the ultimate play clothes: loose rompers in denim or the landscape print, voluminous tanks with rope details (a nod to string games like cat’s cradle), and sack dress after sack dress. Of the latter, the best were in bright colors and cloud prints, rather than the dark neutrals, which read too dour.
The order of the collection seemed to follow a day in the life of a child. There were sunny yellow skirts and that landscape print in the beginning, a little cheerful pink swimwear in the middle, and finally, metallic capes and coats patterned with stars to end with. It was a good day.