ALEXIS MABILLE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR PARIS FASHION WEEK

ALEXIS MABILLE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR PARIS FASHION WEEK

If the omnipresent athleisure trend has given women permission to wear their barre-class clothes to brunch, Alexis Mabille figures they can wear his dressed-up sweats to a swish soiree. In conflating two diametrically opposite club inspirations—gym and night—he reworked the humble gray tracksuit as belted jackets, twisted-neckline minidresses, and skirts with lace overlays. Jogging and tuxedo pants alike featured a single stripe down the leg, as if making the case that they’re really not so different after all. Mabille’s overarching theme—the fabric twist—also appeared as a jumbo-size trompe l’oeil print applied to sheaths for day (silk) and evening (lamé).

A grouping anchored in chambray held the most appeal, aside from the wayward pink metal chains and crystal closures, misguidedly added to underscore that denim is only evening-appropriate when bedecked in bling. But the excess of embellishment—see also the logo plaques on beanie caps—communicated an even more important point: The line is fine between juxtaposition and overcompensation. Gray leggings with ankle-strap heels were definitely examples of the latter. As always, Mabille expended much effort and energy into making sure his models looked cute—so much so, in fact, that the collection proved an exercise in trying too hard.

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