DIESEL BLACK GOLD AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
The Diesel Black Gold formula is tried-and-true. Black leather, black denim, grommets, studs. The challenge for designer Andreas Melbostad, who has been at the label for two years now, is how to renew it each season. Spring gave him a bit of trouble, but he was back on track for Fall. It was photographer Peter Lindbergh, he said, who helped him get there. Lindbergh’s pictures of famous and beautiful women were gathered together in a 2013 book and, more recently, at a Gagosian Gallery show in Paris. Among his most iconic images is a gritty black-and-white shot of the early-’90s supermodels wearing motorcycle jackets, miniskirts, and boots. It’s a very DBG kind of picture, but Melbostad’s collection wasn’t a line-for-line lift.
“I love Lindbergh’s kind of raw beauty, and also the masculine-feminine aspect of it,” Melbostad said backstage. Like other designers this week, he opted for a shades-of-black palette, layering a biker jacket or parka over a chunky knit and a lace-edged slip, or sweetening up a boxy man’s jacket with a flippy mini. Melbostad wasn’t rewriting the rule book with these outfits, but the proportions looked good (cut and fit are things he’s gotten right since his days at Phi). Another key aspect of the clothes was their industrial, utilitarian details. D-rings replaced studs as the embellishment du jour. Parachute straps added definition to waistlines but were just as often used as decoration, connecting the top and bottom halves of a tank dress or creating a sort of hard-core fringe on the front of a skirt. Melbostad even threw in a pair of bondage pants, but we’ll do you and him a favor and skip the obligatory Fifty Shades of Grey reference.