DKNY – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
What a difference a season makes. Where Fall at DKNY found Donna Karan flirting with bold color combos, techy fabrics, and some puzzling styling, for Resort she made an about-face, and the mood at her secondary label was one of pared-back, easy polish. Working in a palette of almost expressly black and white, Karan and her team planted their pieces squarely at the intersection of so many of the things that have defined her clothes for years: day and night, matte and shine, tough and soft, coquette and sophisticate, stark and luxe. The result was a sharp, contemporary collection with plenty of want-it-now appeal, strong and modern in all the ways DKNY on paper should be. The styling was certainly savvy here; winning combos of midi dresses and pants, as well as a faux-fur cocoon coat shot through with wisps of ostrich feather and teamed with slouchy pants and white sneakers, spoke to a street-style modishness. Strong, 21st-century tailoring (ascending DKNY designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne would surely approve) stood out, like a tuxedo cape worn over a slinky sheer top. DKNY isn’t at base a brand that’s lacking in accessibility, but this outing had a new relevance and commercial appeal to it that—teamed with those incoming wunderkinds—could translate to only good things for the label.