FRANCE SCOGNAMIGLIO AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR MILAN FASHION WEEK

Francesco Scognamiglio found himself wedged between two hot shows tonight, the latter of which is such a big spender he lost some key models at the 11th hour. He made do. Scognamiglio has operated on the borders of Milan fashion week for at least a decade, never quite making it big despite the fact that the guy cuts some of the best pants in town. This season they were high-waisted and straight-legged with an exposed gold zipper—more than a hint kinky. He paired them with a tucked-in ribbed knit mohair sweater or with belted, shawl-collar jackets that grazed the hips.

The designer is making efforts to build his day business, despite his natural inclinations. At least a few times Scognamiglio obscured his perfectly cut pants entirely with a sheer wisp of a dress. It’s hard to see beyond his silky, décolletage-exposing frocks: They’re just so darn everything-out-there-and-ready-for-your-delectation. The best dress here was more modestly inclined in pink dévoré velvet with three-quarter sleeves, an ankle-length hem, and a loose belt around the natural waist. It would be nice to see Scognamiglio continue to move in that direction—romantic, without edging toward the indiscreet. A pair of long belted coats with generously proportioned belts suggested that he’s more than capable of such everyday delights. On the other hand, the sheared black lamb duster lined with pink satin quilted in an elaborate rose motif was hardly the stuff of morning commutes, but it showcased some couture-quality technique. It would’ve been interesting to see it paired with something other than a lace-edged teddy; still, Scognamiglio will get some attention out of it on the celebrity front.