MM6 MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA AW15’16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
Today’s Fall outing was the final MM6 collection not developed under the watch of Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano, so it’s tough to discern how much or how little it’s about to change. Focusing on the now, it’s easy to make the case that this secondary line doesn’t need that much tweaking.
This season, the team took Pre-Fall’s idea of “sheltering textures” and expanded on it with a range of pieces built to cocoon around the body. Sleeves were elongated on everything from a ribbed neon cropped sweater to an oversize faux-leather motorcycle jacket. More tailored pieces were piled upon each other. For instance, a true-red knit dress was done up with a ribbed-knit corset, a pair of wool elbow-length gloves, and platform cowboy boots—all in the same color. Easy commercial pieces were given a slight kink: A wool boilersuit was sprinkled with glitter; a teddy-texture overcoat was rendered in red instead of the more traditional tan. The streetwear element came in the club-kid nods: sheer panels peeking out of a pair of bleached-out cropped jeans; neon hair extensions; “What’s flamboyant for you is normal for me” screen-printed onto a sweatshirt; reflective tent tarp fabric made into separates. Knit bra tops and boiled-wool lace added more texture.
Sure, the concept was fairly clear, but more than anything this collection was about easy-to-digest clothes that managed to, in most cases, be interesting too. Basics for the not-so-basic wardrobe. Whatever happens next, that’s not a bad proposition to stand by.